Treatment of fish with salt and how to carry out salt baths for fish? Fin rot: treatment in a community aquarium Treatment of fish with potassium permanganate

The answer to this question also contains the answer to why, in each individual case, aquarists are looking for a new method of treatment, rather than using an already proven scheme. So, what is it? Treatment of this disease is complicated by the fact that it is only one component of a systemic bacterial infection. That is, it is not possible to identify a single pathogen. Several different species of bacteria are involved in the pathogenesis. In particular, experiments have shown that different fish with the same symptoms (fin rot) should receive different treatments. That is why a remedy that helped some turns out to be useless for others.

Main pathogens and symptoms of the disease

Aeromonas hydrophila and all its subspecies are one of the pathogens. It is a gram-negative anaerobic bacillus that is widely distributed in the environment, in fresh and salt water. The second large group of pathogens is Pseudomonas. It is an obligate aerobe, most often found in soil and spoiled food. It is these two groups of microorganisms that cause a disease called “fin rot”. Treatment requires a quick and accurate diagnosis, which usually does not cause problems. The symptoms are obvious enough that even a beginner can recognize them.

First of all, systemic infection leads to the destruction of the body and internal organs. Hemorrhages and necrosis, sepsis, and grayish ulcers on the surface of the body are noted. The fish loses color, fins stick together and erode, and scales become ruffled.

Disease prevention

The later you notice changes, the more damage fin rot can cause. Treatment in a community aquarium is much more effective if it begins at the very first stages of the disease. In any case, the disease is much easier to prevent than to treat. This is a consequence of poor fish immunity in this case decreases, and the concentration of pathogenic microflora becomes higher and higher, which ultimately leads to an outbreak of infection. Prevention is compliance with sanitary standards and requirements for keeping fish. Make sure that there is no excess food in the aquarium, which will rot. There is no vaccine against this disease, but antibiotic therapy is very effective.

Treatment

There are actually two options available. These are medicinal baths where sick fish are placed, as well as the addition of medicine to the general water area. Which method is more effective to completely forget about a disease such as fin rot? Treatment in a community aquarium is considered more effective, since you simultaneously disinfect the soil, plants, and all other contents of the tank, which can become a source of re-propagation of the infection. Therefore, today we will talk about these types of treatment methods.

When did you notice the first symptoms?

The result will be much more effective if you have already noticed the first symptoms of a terrible disease called “fin rot”. Treatment in a community aquarium with salt can only help now. If you neglect the situation, more serious means will be required.

First of all, do a good water change, at least 30%, and set the maximum temperature acceptable for the breed of fish that live in your aquarium. If there are individual individuals that cannot tolerate such changes, they are placed in a separate container. An effective remedy at first is to add regular, non-iodized salt to the water. The norm for sensitive fish is two teaspoons per 10 liters of water, and if the fish can easily tolerate salt, you can add 3 teaspoons to the same amount of water. Keep an eye on your pets. If after a few days the situation has not improved, do a 50-80% water change and begin drug treatment.

Ordinary potassium permanganate will help you

Potassium permanganate is used to disinfect water areas in the treatment of many bacterial infections, including fin rot. Treatment in a general aquarium (the photo of water colored with potassium permanganate looks quite original) is only possible with a subsequent change of water. In this case, it would be much better to place the fish in a separate vessel, where you add 0.5 g per 10 liters of water. The fish are placed in the solution every two hours for 20 minutes. While treatment is ongoing, it is very good to add potassium permanganate to the general aquarium in order to destroy the causative agent of the disease on plants and soil.

Malachite green is the optimal solution for the most difficult cases

Malachite green oxalate is toxic, but helps to effectively cope with this disease. Perfect for treating viviparous, labyrinth fish, neons and barbs, and various ornamental crucians. But for other fish it is used with caution, so consult a professional who knows well what fin rot is. Treatment in a general aquarium takes place at a temperature of +24...+28 degrees. During the entire course it is necessary to aerate the water well. 10 mg/100 l is added to the water. Doses are repeated after 7 days. The treatment itself can last more than a month.

Familiar antibiotics

Simple and inexpensive remedies can help you cope with ailments such as fin rot. Treatment with chloramphenicol in a community aquarium is recommended not only by amateur aquarists, but also by veterinarians. This drug is almost always in your home medicine cabinet. The tablets do not dissolve well in water, so you need to put them in a glass and stir well, and then add them to the aquarium. Dosage - 200 mg per liter. The solution is poured and left for 5 days. When this period ends, it is necessary to begin a partial water change.

Specialized drugs from veterinary pharmacy

What is the most famous product that every aquarist should have? Here's a hint: with its help, you can instantly get rid of a bacterial disease called fin rot. Anti-steam treatment is the most modern way to protect all inhabitants of the water area. It is noteworthy that it can be used for prevention. If you bought new live food, soak it in a weak solution for a few minutes before feeding. Also, for preventive purposes, therapeutic baths are carried out. - 1 ml per 10 liters of water, exposure time 3 hours. In such a bath you can keep new residents who came to you from the store, algae and soil.

If signs of the disease are already present, everything can be corrected. In this case, all lighting devices and filters are turned off. The temperature is maintained at 24-26 degrees. The working solution is added every four days. Therapeutic concentration for long-term baths is 1 ml per 50 liters of water. Decontaminate the solution by passing it through This is an indispensable tool that will help in almost any case. So if you buy an aquarium, stock up on this universal medicine, just in case. Judging by the reviews, it can help out in cases where the symptoms of the disease develop rapidly and time is against you.

Do not forget that an aquarium is a real home for fish. It, like a human home, needs cleaning. If a person can provide himself with frequent cleaning, then such a luxury is not available for fish, so it is the owner who must disinfect the aquarium and monitor the condition of his pets. Many people know about this, but not everyone knows how to disinfect an aquarium correctly.

Primary activities

The first disinfection of the aquarium occurs immediately after you purchase the tank. The future house for fish must undergo careful processing before the first inhabitants of flora and fauna appear there.

How to properly carry out primary disinfection:

1. Fill the aquarium with plain water.
2. Dilute the potassium permanganate solution to a dark color and pour it into an aquarium filled with tap water.
3. After this, leave it for a day. During this time, all pathogenic bacteria will die.
4. Drain off all the water and wipe the walls dry with a dry cloth.
5. Rinse it several times with clean running water.

The next step will be preparing the water to start a new aquarium. In order for free chlorine to leave the water, it is necessary to leave 100% of the water for at least 3 days. Then pour it in and wait a couple of days again. Only after this will the aqua be ready to accept its first inhabitants.

In order not to waste time, prepare the rest of the equipment and decor for your exclusive pond. Don’t forget, they also need to be thoroughly disinfected before they end up in the same water as fish. Particular attention is paid to the soil. It is most often used sea sand and pebbles collected in natural conditions. Of course, the substrate contains a huge variety of pathogenic bacteria that will poison the entire environment in the water. To overcome the negative consequences, you need to calcine the soil in the oven or in a large frying pan. It is necessary to expose the entire soil to maximum temperature for at least 20 minutes. For convenience, divide it into portions. Do not pour hot sand into the aquarium! Cool and rinse it thoroughly. One wash is not enough, it is better to repeat the procedure 3-4 times, only after that you can place it in the aquarium. You should not ignore this stage of the initial start-up of the aquarium.

Accessories are considered among the mandatory elements of the normal functioning of an artificial reservoir. Collect all decorative elements, excluding plastic options, and boil them thoroughly. Since heat treatment can cause plastic parts to melt, it is better to treat them with a dark solution of potassium permanganate.

Disinfection of an aquarium is a necessary measure that aquarists have to take in order to protect pets and plants from death. The need to disinfect the water and elements in the aquarium arises after the manifestation of infectious viruses and microorganisms in the reservoir, as well as after the death of pets. However, not all owners of artificial reservoirs know how to disinfect an aquarium correctly so as not to harm the inhabitants of the aquarium.

In what cases is disinfection necessary?

Disinfection of an aquarium is carried out in two cases:

• During the initial launch of a new artificial reservoir.
• Disinfection of an existing reservoir with disinfectants when infectious diseases are detected.

When starting up the tank for the first time, disinfection is necessary in order to destroy possible contaminants, bacteria, microbes and other viruses, which can subsequently lead to dire consequences and even the death of pets, so it is necessary to treat the aquarium immediately after purchase. An existing aquarium is disinfected if contagious fish diseases or harmful algae have been identified, for example, with ichthyphothyrius, blackbeard or blue-green algae. In these cases, disinfecting the aquarium will not only destroy the remains of bacteria and viruses, but will also help the owner treat their pets.

Primary disinfection of the aquarium

Primary disinfection of the aquarium is carried out before planting plants and laying out soil in order to protect vegetation and fish from possible infections that get inside the tank upon purchase. It is necessary to treat not only the container, but also the soil, as well as the stones for the aquarium. Disinfection of the plant before planting is also required. The primary disinfection procedure can be easily performed at home and will take 72 hours.

To disinfect a pond with potassium permanganate, you must perform the following steps:

• The container is filled with ordinary tap water.
• Prepare a solution by mixing water with potassium permanganate until the liquid acquires a dark tint.
• The solution is poured into the tank and left for a day.
• After a day, all the liquid from the container is drained, the container is rinsed and wiped dry with a clean cloth.
• The procedure is repeated two more times.

Soil and plant treatment

Successful cultivation of plants in a pond depends on the quality of the soil, so before laying out the substrate must undergo a disinfection period. To process, it is necessary to thoroughly rinse the soil, let it dry and calcine the substrate in an oven for 15 minutes at a temperature of 100C. The finished soil is allowed to cool at room temperature and placed in a tank.

New plants are disinfected in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, putting aquatic flowers there for 15–20 minutes. The main thing is not to overdo it with potassium permanganate, otherwise there is a risk of burning the tender leaves.

Scenery processing

Decorations made of wood, stone or metal, and stones for the aquarium are disinfected by boiling in boiling water for 15–20 minutes - this time is enough to destroy possible harmful bacteria and viruses that can harm the fish. Decorative elements made of plastic cannot be boiled, so a solution of potassium permanganate is used for bactericidal treatment.

Disinfection of an existing aquarium

An existing artificial pond with fish is treated with antibacterial substances. To make the tank disinfected, a solution with penicillin (10 mg/2 l) is used, and the procedure itself takes 72 hours. There is no need to worry about the flora: aquarium plants will not die. If a fish suddenly dies in the tank, the treatment is carried out using a bactericidal lamp, turning on the device for 15 minutes for three days in a row.

Effective disinfection methods

The most effective and popular methods of treating an existing tank are:

• Disinfection with boiling water - when using this method, all harmful algae, bacterial colonies and infections are guaranteed to die. The temperature should be increased gradually so that the glass of the container does not crack. The method is only suitable for seamless reservoirs or with persistent glue, otherwise leaks and damage to the container are possible.
• Potent antibacterial agents are used in case of fish infection with dangerous infectious diseases - the tanks are disinfected with a powerful cleaning agent or chlorine-containing agent. You cannot use white in this case! After the tank has been treated, rinse the container with water several times.
• Hydrogen peroxide will help disinfect the pond as a preventative measure. The action of the product is not as strong and powerful as the previous method, but hydrogen peroxide is the most careful and safe to use. However, after using peroxide, the container should be rinsed.
• A mixture of table salt and thick water will also help disinfect the pond. After mixing salt and water, the resulting slurry is applied to the corners and seams of the tank, then the container is filled with liquid and left for two hours. After treatment, the liquid is drained and the tank is thoroughly washed, since salt is very dangerous for many phenotypes.
• Methylene blue is one of the most popular drugs. It is safe for fish, so when treating an aquarium with blue, pets do not need to be resettled from the reservoir. Blue is added to the liquid in a ratio of 2 mg/10 l. The disadvantage of using this method is that methylene blue turns the water blue.
• An ultraviolet lamp is another fish-safe way to disinfect a tank. A lamp with ultraviolet radiation can be used as an independent method, and in combination with the above methods.

Disinfecting an aquarium is a simple and effective way to ensure the destruction of dirt, bacterial colonies and algae that harm fish, plants and shellfish. When disinfecting the tank, you should follow the general rules and instructions on the packaging of antibacterial agents in order to upset the ecological balance and not harm your pets.

Video about disinfecting an aquarium

However, its effectiveness is fully demonstrated only if the rules for its use are observed.

Disadvantages include restrictions regarding application to certain types of fish that do not tolerate increased concentrations of sodium and chlorine ions. These include:

— Sumatran barbs, including varieties, which are colloquially called “mutants” by aquarists;

Salt treatment of juvenile labyrinths should be used very carefully (the maximum easily tolerated salt concentration is 1.5%).

For fish of the above species, the maximum salt concentration should not exceed 2-2.5% for a bath duration of ten minutes, but if the fish can withstand this time without problems, it is extended to fifteen minutes.

One method to overcome this disadvantage is to gradually add salt to the aquarium water. Start with ¼ teaspoon per ten liters and gradually increase the dosage to 2 tablespoons. The method is effective if it is used in nursery aquariums. However, this method ultimately has a drawback - the fish get used to salted water and are no longer able to live in ordinary freshwater aquariums.

Another disadvantage is the intolerance of higher concentrations of sodium and chlorine ions by higher aquatic plants. Lower algae are resistant to increased concentrations of these ions; as a result, an outbreak of increased growth of these algae may begin in the aquarium.

Salt treatment should also not be used in aquarium water with a high nitrate content.

Therapeutic baths with solutions of high salt concentration are successfully used in the treatment of diseases such as:

The minimum time for using baths with saline solution to destroy the pathogens of the diseases listed above is 10 minutes, and the higher the proportion, the more effective the treatment. But for aquarium fish, the practical limit for the concentration of the saline solution is in the range of 4% -5%. Therefore, choose a concentration of 2% and increase the treatment time to ten to fifteen minutes.

The time of treatment in solutions with a concentration of about 2% within the specified time interval is best selected experimentally. Start by checking the time interval of ten minutes. For the first time, a low-value fish is bathed in the bath, carefully monitoring its behavior. If the fish do not show symptoms of intolerance (they do not try to jump out, there is no increased breathing with convulsive bouncing of the fins, when they rise to the surface they turn over on their side, cannot sink to the bottom, increased secretion of mucus begins), the time is extended to fifteen minutes. If during this time no symptoms of intolerance appear, increase the concentration (optimally - reaching a threshold of 4%).

To prepare a medicinal solution, you can use any, including iodized one. If you don’t have accurate scales, you can use the traditional method of determining weight using kitchen utensils. For the proportion of a 2% solution per 1 liter of water, you will need 2 teaspoons with a small hill of salt. The solution is stirred until the salt is completely dissolved.

The bath treatment method is as follows. Two outpatient tanks are being prepared. The prepared solution for treatment is poured into the first one, powerful aeration is installed (it must be arranged so that the fish is not captured by the emerging current) and the temperature is equalized with that maintained in the aquarium with the fish to be treated (the temperature difference of 2˚C is not allowed to be exceeded) .

Naturally, higher dosages of salt are more effective, but in cases of starting treatment for severe forms of advanced lesions, the weakened body of the fish may not be able to withstand the treatment. In such cases, treatment begins with bathing in a 1.5% salt solution and increases the concentration on the second day, an even more concentrated solution on the third day, and so on until the optimal concentration is reached (from 2% to 4%).

The difference between the pH of the water in the aquarium with fish and in the treatment bath and in the rinsing bath should not exceed more than 0.2 units (in either direction). The temperature of the water in the rinsing bath should not differ from the temperature in the treatment bath.

In cases where emergency assistance is necessary, you can boil ordinary tap water, wait until it cools down to the temperature in the aquarium, and install powerful aeration as soon as the temperature conditions for the equipment allow it. You need to aerate for at least half an hour.

When using salt as a medicine, the effectiveness will increase if potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) is added to the solution for medicinal baths. Permanganate (potassium permanganate) is added until the solution becomes raspberry-colored.

For complete treatment with salt baths, you need to carry out at least three baths at daily intervals.

Table salt is also used to create long-term baths for treatment. Such baths can be used in quarantine tanks, in nursery aquariums - that is, in aquariums without decoration with higher aquatic plants. Such treatment or prevention is carried out with solutions of concentration at the rate of one and a half grams of salt per liter of water. The duration of detention in such a solution ranges from several days to two weeks. If you keep fish in such a solution for more than the specified time, then disorders of independent osmoregulation may occur. Returns to normal conditions are carried out by changing 10% of the water daily - the process is continued until the salt content reaches zero. Such long-term baths are well tolerated by livebearers, spawning carp, cichlids, and varieties of goldfish.

Disinfection of an aquarium is a necessary measure that aquarists have to take in order to protect pets and plants from death. The need to disinfect the water and elements in the aquarium arises after the manifestation of infectious viruses and microorganisms in the reservoir, as well as after the death of pets. However, not all owners of artificial reservoirs know how to disinfect an aquarium correctly so as not to harm the inhabitants of the aquarium.

Disinfection of an aquarium is carried out in two cases:

• During the initial launch of a new artificial reservoir.
• Disinfection of an existing reservoir with disinfectants when infectious diseases are detected.

When starting up the tank for the first time, disinfection is necessary in order to destroy possible contaminants, bacteria, microbes and other viruses, which can subsequently lead to dire consequences and even the death of pets, so it is necessary to treat the aquarium immediately after purchase. An existing aquarium is disinfected if contagious fish diseases or harmful algae have been identified, for example, with ichthyphothyrius, blackbeard or blue-green algae. In these cases, disinfecting the aquarium will not only destroy the remains of bacteria and viruses, but will also help the owner treat their pets.

Effective disinfection methods

The most effective and popular methods of treating an existing tank are:

• Disinfection with boiling water - when using this method, all harmful algae, bacterial colonies and infections are guaranteed to die. The temperature should be increased gradually so that the glass of the container does not crack. The method is only suitable for seamless reservoirs or with persistent glue, otherwise leaks and damage to the container are possible.
• Potent antibacterial agents are used in case of fish infection with dangerous infectious diseases - the tanks are disinfected with a powerful cleaning agent or chlorine-containing agent. You cannot use white in this case! After the tank has been treated, rinse the container with water several times.
• Hydrogen peroxide will help disinfect the pond as a preventative measure. The action of the product is not as strong and powerful as the previous method, but hydrogen peroxide is the most careful and safe to use. However, after using peroxide, the container should be rinsed.
• A mixture of table salt and thick water will also help disinfect the pond. After mixing salt and water, the resulting slurry is applied to the corners and seams of the tank, then the container is filled with liquid and left for two hours. After treatment, the liquid is drained and the tank is thoroughly washed, since salt is very dangerous for many phenotypes.
• Methylene blue is one of the most popular drugs. It is safe for fish, so when treating an aquarium with blue, pets do not need to be resettled from the reservoir. Blue is added to the liquid in a ratio of 2 mg/10 l. The disadvantage of using this method is that methylene blue turns the water blue.
• An ultraviolet lamp is another fish-safe way to disinfect a tank. A lamp with ultraviolet radiation can be used as an independent method, and in combination with the above methods.

Disinfecting an aquarium is a simple and effective way to ensure the destruction of dirt, bacterial colonies and algae that harm fish, plants and shellfish. When disinfecting the tank, you should follow the general rules and instructions on the packaging of antibacterial agents in order to upset the ecological balance and not harm your pets.

Video about disinfecting an aquarium

Regular table salt is rightfully considered a folk remedy for treating aquarium fish. You can treat with salt directly in the aquarium (slightly adding salt to the water), or you can bathe the fish in a separate container in a relatively strong salt solution. Scientifically speaking, treat using long-term and short-term salt baths.

Photo 1. Table salt from a regular grocery store is a universal treatment for aquarium fish. It is best to use non-iodized coarse salt, ideally rock salt. But you can also have another one - finely ground, “Extra” type.

2 - the Sumatran barb and all its varieties, for example, the “mutant” (also known as the “mossy barb”), really do not like prolonged treatment with salt.
3 - cannot be treated with salt.
4 - young labyrinth fish should be treated with salt with caution. As a rule, they do not tolerate short-term baths with a salt concentration of more than 2%. In no case should it be exceeded for these fish. It is optimal to use a table salt concentration of 1.5%. A lower concentration for short-term bathing of fish is no longer effective. Some breeders add a little salt (1-2 teaspoons per 10 liters) to the juveniles right in the nursery aquarium. This results in a long-term healing salt bath. The fish gradually get used to the increased salinity, and they actually get sick less, but the problem is, they then get sick in fresh water.
5 - you should not use salt in decorative aquariums with plants. Higher aquatic vegetation for the most part does not tolerate high concentrations of sodium and chlorine ions, but they do not prevent algae, which so maliciously spoil the entire aqua design, from multiplying without measure (for more details, see the article " ").
6 - you cannot add table salt to the water of an aquarium with, this will only worsen the condition of the fish.
7 - and, finally, there is no need to use table salt to treat ichthyophthyriosis (at least just salt alone). Without the use of proprietary products or the method described in the article " “Salt will not bring success in the fight against semolina.

What diseases can be treated for aquarium fish with salt?

For what symptoms is it advisable to treat fish with salt?

• if fish start touching the ground and leaves of plants;
• whitish or gray-blue mucus becomes noticeable on their body (sometimes only at a certain position of the fish in relation to the observer);
• the body and/or fins are sprinkled with fine grayish or golden sand;
• the fins of fish are constantly compressed, they do not straighten them even when they try to swim quickly, with compressed fins this turns out very clumsily;
• fish stay near the surface of the water near the air spray;
• viviparous fish make characteristic oscillatory movements with their entire body from side to side, and labyrinthine fish - back and forth.

If you notice these symptoms, then it is best to first make sure that the conditions in the aquarium are quite acceptable for the life of fish (the article " will help you understand the basics of aquarium hydrochemistry " and). And if it turns out that it is quite possible to live in your aquarium, but for some reason the fish feel bad, then they are most likely sick and you should start treating them.
A short-term salt bath in this case may well be the best choice. How to do it is described in detail below, but first of allI want to draw the attention of readers to the need to accurately select the concentration of the saline solution.

How long should the fish be bathed and what should the concentration of the saline solution be?

A 4-5% solution is guaranteed and quickly kills pathogens, but a rare aquarium fish will last in it for even 5 minutes, not to mention the minimum required for a short-term salt bath - ten. However, a 2.0% solution also has a significant therapeutic effect. Almost all aquarium freshwater fish can tolerate this concentration of salt within 10-15 minutes. If there is an urgent need, you can bathe catfish in a salt solution of this concentration. With experience comes an intuitive understanding of what strength of solution will benefit the fish, but for now there is little experience, at first carry out the bathing procedure with one or two of the least valuable fish,and if they can withstand a 15-minute bath, then you can safely bathe the rest, and the salt concentration can even be slightly increased (in principle, for aquarium fish you can use solutions with a strength of up to 4%).As a rule, a 2.0 - 2.5% solution turns out to be optimal (bathing time is 10 minutes, and if the fish are in good health - up to 15 minutes). During the salt bath, watch the fish very carefully. If they begin to be pushed out of the water, they lie on the surface on their side and cannot go down, or too much mucus begins to separate from them, then it is necessary to urgently stop the bathing procedure.

Photo 2. A teaspoon with ten grams of table salt. In order for a spoon to hold 10 g, the slide must be quite decent. I even sprinkled some while I was positioning the spoon on the scale. The weight of the spoon is compensated, the display shows the weight of the salt. Before you start treating your fish with salt, check yourself again to see if you have calculated the concentration correctly and measured the right amount of salt.

So, the most universal and cheapest way to treat aquarium fish is short-term salt baths. Here is the method for carrying them out:

The method of short-term therapeutic salt baths is good because it allows you to do without adding medications (antibiotics and dyes) to the aquarium water, which disrupt, killing beneficial and. In addition, many antibiotics inhibit plant growth and can even lead to their death. Therefore, if you have valuable plants in your aquarium, or plants are always more valuable to you than fish, the only acceptable treatment method will be short-term medicinal baths, in particular the short-term salt baths described here.

Long-term (long-term) salt baths for treating fish: how and why to carry them out?

Long therapeutic salt baths can be carried out in quarantine tanks, nursery aquariums and in aquariums where there are no living plants. In this case, it is more correct to use natural rock salt, but it is acceptable to use any table salt. Long-term treatment of fish with salt is used to combat the same pathogenic organisms that are already listed at the beginning of this article and to relieve symptoms. As a rule, concentrations not exceeding 1.5 g/l are used, and in case of nitrite poisoning - significantly lower.Viviparous fish tolerate long-term salt baths well; this treatment method can also be applied to goldfish, cichlids, spawning cyprinids and some other types of aquarium fish.
The duration of long-term salt baths is from several days to two weeks. At this time, during water changes, water with the same salt concentration as in the aquarium is poured into the aquarium. I would not recommend keeping fish in water with high salinity for more than two weeks, so that they do not develop disorders of their osmoregulation mechanisms. As soon as the fish are freed from pathogens (their symptoms of poor health disappear), you should begin to reduce the salt concentration using fractional water changes (10 - 15% of the aquarium volume daily).

If you have a need to treat fish with salt, but you are not sure whether salt can be used for certain species and you find it difficult to choose the concentration and/or duration of treatment (short-term or long-term baths), then ask about it at, where a special subject: .

More materials about treating aquarium fish using short-term therapeutic baths: " ".

V. Kovalev 04/29/2015

Updated 02/19/2019