Why is the water in the aquarium cloudy after starting? What to do if the turbidity in the aquarium has ruined the entire landscape? The main culprits of dregs

Muddy water spoils the aesthetic appearance and negatively affects the living conditions of the inhabitants. Its appearance can be not only a prerequisite for flowering, but also a signal of a number of problems with plants, soil and its composition, and talk about diseases of fish and other pets. The fight against it can be solved, but requires attention, observation and caution of the owner.

An aquarium is a special artificial reservoir that has an individual biological balance. Changing one part can change the whole. So, let's look at the main causes of turbidity:

• incorrectly selected soil;
• improper feeding of the inhabitants;
• overpopulation;
• frequent or incorrect water changes;
• absence or malfunction of the filter;
• Availability large fish;

All these factors lead either to mechanical contamination of water, or, worse, to bacterial contamination.

Let us consider in more detail the cases of mechanical contamination. These include the small size of the aquarium, the presence of large fish, and improper soil.

Small aquarium sizes lead to frequent biochemical outbreaks, especially if the inhabitants are not selected correctly. Thus, the smallest containers, as a rule, are reserved for shrimp, snails, and other relatively neutral inhabitants.

When turbidity appears, you need to reconsider and, if possible, change the population of the aquarium and adjust the filtration. Perhaps the problem is the wrong type of filter.

Remedy tips:

1. Change the location of the filter (from horizontal to vertical or vice versa), as the landscape may interfere with the flow of water.
2. Replace the filter itself. A stronger filter or a different type of filter (bottom, internal, external) may help.
3. Change filter media.
4. Monitor the lighting daily and reduce it if necessary.
5. Change the population from too large fish to small ones or reduce their number.

The cause of cloudy water can be excessive feeding of fish. You should deliberately underfeed your pets for at least a few days, making sure that the food is completely eaten. How to determine if the fish are full? After 15 minutes from the start of feeding, you need to remove all leftover food, avoiding rotting of the leftovers at the bottom and subsequent spoilage of the water.

The soil must be correctly selected; it is advisable that it is not painted and washed well. And it also needs to be poured correctly, not exactly horizontally, but with an inclination towards back wall in order to make it easier to clean.

Very often, burrowing fish, such as cichlids, can raise turbidity in an aquarium. In this case, it is recommended to change either the soil fraction or think about its quality. River sand, which looks so beautiful in an aquarium, can become dusty even with slight fluctuations if not washed correctly.

Those with colored soil may also notice that the water turns unnatural colors. This phenomenon says a lot about the quality of the soil. In this case, it is recommended to remove it, because the paint is unsafe for fish and plants.

The water in the aquarium turns green: reasons

The color of the water in the aquarium is determined by various factors. Among them are the presence of living plants or snags, the properties of food, low oxygen saturation, the proliferation of bacteria and, as a result, the growth of bacteria that settle on the ground, glass, and everything that is in the water.

The proliferation of microscopic green euglena algae leads to the coloring of the aquatic environment in an unnatural yellow-green or bright green color. A small amount of them is always present in any aquarium. They come with food, and are even contained in clear water. And their active reproduction, caused by improperly organized, excessive lighting of the aquarium, leads to greening. While trying to keep the fish in sight, you still need to protect them from direct contact sunlight, as well as from increased artificial lighting. In winter, lighting should be turned on for no more than 10 hours, and on a summer day - for 12 hours. Otherwise, algae can cover both the walls and decorative items, and it will not be so easy to wash them in the future.

To combat unicellular algae, you can place a hornwort plant in the aquarium, which absorbs from the water excessive quantity nitrogen, and the growth of microalgae will be stopped. If possible, add daphnia, and after a day remove them from the purified water.

An increased level of phosphates in water also leads to its rapid greening. These salts can be found in large quantities in fish food and get into the water with excrement. Tap water can be a source of phosphates. To combat excess phosphates, you can plant fast-growing plants. Used for cleaning chemical methods. There are special conditioners on sale that are harmless to fish and vegetation.

Hornwort actively absorbs organic matter from water, competing with microscopic algae.

White cloudiness

Such phenomena may indicate a bacterial outbreak and an imbalance in the aquarium. It usually happens in freshly started containers or when too much organic matter is added to the water. Nitrifying bacteria begin to multiply excessively, and ciliates, in turn, do not have time to absorb them.

In the first days of startup, cloudiness of the water is a normal process that accompanies the installation of the biobalance of the aquarium. It is for this reason that it is not recommended to introduce inhabitants in the first 7-14 after filling the aquarium.

Often newcomers, seeing the water milky white They immediately begin to completely drain it and refill it, and after 3-4 days the process is repeated. The first thing an aquarist should do when he sees cloudy water is to leave the aquarium alone. Usually after 3 days it “settles down” and becomes transparent. To speed up the process, you can add a small amount of water from another aquarium with a favorable environment into the container. You can also use special conditioners, such as Tetra AquaSafe.

Water can also turn white due to excessive water changes. In this case, the aquarium should also be left alone and allowed to settle.

If after a week the water remains whitish, then in this case you need to take some action. First you need to replace the filter sponge, and also increase the frequency of water changes. For the cleaning aquarium water There is a special air conditioner from Tetra - CrystalWater. IN as a last resort can be done .

When purchasing fish, novice aquarists are advised to always consult with specialists working in the store. They will not only help you choose the right soil, filter, and food, but will also explain what types of fish can be planted in one aquarium.

Nobody likes cloudy water in an aquarium: neither the fish, nor the plants, nor the owners of the aquarium. This makes the aquarium unattractive, reduces visibility, promotes poor plant growth and reduces the brightness of fish colors.

Why does the water suddenly become cloudy?

When purchasing new equipment for an aquarium and the glass fish house itself, a novice aquarist expects impeccable cleanliness, safety and the absence of any risk factors for pollution of the aquatic environment. In fact, sometimes it turns out the other way around. The materials used in the manufacture of aquariums often have a non-uniform structure, which leads to its destruction when long stay in water.

Design elements purchased from random sellers may have chemical composition, which under the influence of water forms finely dispersed compounds that precipitate.

Being heavier than water, such particles settle to the bottom, covering it with a thin layer, as well as large plant leaves and other decorative elements. At the slightest movement of water, including even sudden movements of fish, this veil rises from the bottom and spreads throughout the entire thickness of the water. This suspension is usually white, odorless, and does not depend on light intensity and water temperature. It cannot be removed using a net, siphon or other mechanical means.

Another reason that the water in the aquarium is cloudy is the settling of excess fish food. Some of its species soak into flakes without being eaten and, being heavier than water, settle on the ground and create a soft multi-colored layer there.

How to help clean your aquarium?

If the water in the aquarium becomes cloudy, what should you do? This question faces many professionals and amateurs when an unusual presence of light suspended particles appears in the water. How can I make it transparent and clean again?

There are several ways. The choice between them depends on the reason that forced liquid medium become cloudy.

First, you need to disassemble the aquarium and thoroughly wash all its components using special detergents for aquariums.

Then use a brush to process all design elements (stones, grottoes, remains of destroyed ships, etc.). Crushing of homemade decorations made from plasterboard, polystyrene foam, shell rock and other heterogeneous raw materials is especially common. If crumbling continues during the cleaning process, it is necessary to treat such parts with adhesive compounds and cover them with waterproof paint.

When pouring water, you need to be sure of its quality. It is better to use purified options. In areas with high natural hardness of water, stand it in an open container for 3-4 hours to allow any sediment to settle.

In the fight against such water suspensions, fine filters installed in certain places are effective.

Experts also recommend the sedimentation method. It is necessary to turn off all injection devices and allow the suspension to settle freely. Then carefully suck out the resulting soft supersoil layer using a regular homemade or professional siphon. Dip one end of the hose into this suspension, begin pulling movements in it, lower the other end into a container to collect the unnecessary mixture and keep it in this state until the sediment is completely drained.

How to feed fish correctly to avoid cloudy water?

Depending on the number of inhabitants inhabiting the aquarium, it is necessary to approximately determine the amount of food required. It is defined as follows. Feeding is carried out at the same time for 7-10 days. The food should float in the water for no more than 20 minutes. After this, the remains must be carefully collected with a special net. Subsequently, the fish will get used to this regime and there will be no need for free floating food. In this way, it is possible to determine how much food the inhabitants of water need to satiate.

True, there are species that feed on food that has settled to the bottom, for example, catfish. For such fish, they buy special food, which is heavier than water and when added to the aquarium, it immediately sinks to the bottom. The timing and duration of their feeding can also be precisely calculated.

Food must be given of high quality, epidemiologically reliable and safe for health. Its presence should not cause the water to become colored, cloudy or acquire an odor. It is unacceptable for it to bloom or lose transparency.

Before getting rid of cloudy water, it is necessary to determine the cause of this phenomenon. If visible risk factors are reduced to a minimum, chemicals can be used, the selection of which must be carried out only in specialized stores that guarantee their quality and safety.

The problem of water turbidity can be overcome. The main thing is not to despair and follow the goal confidently and systematically. The aquarium must be transparent, spotlessly clean and perfectly neat!

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A real problem for beginners who have just entered the aquarium and are faced with this difficulty.
Therefore, let's begin to understand the problem and ways to solve it in order.
To begin with, we can say that there are two types of turbidity in an aquarium: biological and mechanical, or both combined.

Biological turbidity, an outbreak of protozoa due to their chaotic reproduction.

Newbies will think: “what does this mean”?
I’ll explain it in a simple way, without clever phrases.
You just started an aquarium. You have it fresh and clean with new water, etc.
The water contains the simplest ciliates, amoebas, etc. (remember biology lessons)
So they begin to quickly multiply in fresh water, it turns out that we ourselves, due to their size, do not see them, but we see turbidity. Most often whitish in color.
If we have fish living in our aquarium, or we put a snag, or added fresh water, then this can also provoke such an outbreak, the proliferation of protozoa.
Which in principle is quite logical. Give it something to eat and there will be growth and reproduction.
An important factor is also the presence of light, especially bright light.
Putting together what was written above, we can conclude the following, in order to get rid of such dregs, you just need NOT! replace water with fresh water(this is the main mistake that aquarists make, a sudden change of water with fresh water). Reduce to the utmost minimum or do not feed the fish at all for a short period of time, remove from the aquarium various props that can decompose, thereby providing additional and nutrients the simplest, and shade the aquarium.
As a rule, if you do what is written above, then within three to four days the dregs will disappear.
Also, cloudiness in the aquarium can be caused by a general lack of maintenance of the environment, dirty water, the presence of uncollected food, dead fish, as well as food such as cabbage leaf or banana peel, milk or dairy products entering the aquarium.
The panacea is the same, you just need to get rid of the provoking factor at the beginning, which gives nutrient medium for the simplest.

Physical dregs.

Remains of rotted plants, fibers, silt, leftover food, driftwood, etc.
All this is a consequence of improper aquarium maintenance or filtration.
Plants should be checked every day during daily maintenance and any damaged parts should be removed.
In case of overfeeding, the remaining food is removed immediately after the fish is saturated, and the area of ​​soil where the food fell is also removed.
The soil also siphons during aquarium maintenance.
Driftwood is treated to remove rotten parts in the same way when servicing an aquarium.
Therefore, all of the above factors indicate that the aquarist is not careful, rather than about problems in the aquarium environment.
Water filtration was invented to help aquarists. Basically, with the help of filters, in case of minor problems, it is possible to avoid mechanical turbidity in the aquarium. If this does not happen, then you either have not been serviced, or do not have enough power, or the filtration of water in the aquarium is not established at all.
In any case, the presence of mechanical haze is an indicator of your incorrect actions.
Also, cloudiness in the aquarium appears when the aquarium is generally overloaded with fish.
Therefore, do not overload the aquarium, keep an eye on total number fish and the required volume for keeping certain individuals.
This also includes keeping fish in an aquarium that like to poke around in the soil.
These include some types of cichlids.
Fish that are not advisable to keep in an aquarium are goldfish and all subspecies of goldfish. Not only do these fish dig up the soil, raising clouds of silt, but they also have quite specific droppings that promote the reproduction of protozoa.
Therefore, when keeping goldfish, you need very good filtration and the required volume for keeping, as well as balanced feeding.

Water coloring.

The fact is that coloring water is not turbidity.
These are solutes. Water may be stained by some dry and non-dry quality feed, scenery and driftwood.
If a piece of driftwood colors the water, releasing tannins, then this is nothing to worry about, the question is that some types of driftwood, for example, oak, lower the pH, which may not have a very good effect on the inhabitants, but this is a completely different question.
After several water changes in the aquarium, the concentration of tannins becomes less, and as a rule, the water becomes lighter.
If paints from food or decorations accumulate in the water, then there is nothing good about it, you need to change the food and get rid of the decorations.

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A problem like muddy water in the aquarium it very often appears in newly started aquariums. Yes, even in “old” aquariums that have been neglected for a long time, this problem can arise. In this article we will tell you why the water in an aquarium becomes cloudy and how to combat this phenomenon.

There are two factors for cloudy water in an aquarium:

1. mechanical
2. biological

Mechanical factors for clouding water in an aquarium

The water in an aquarium, as in any ecosystem, can become cloudy due to the large number of small particles that appear during the life of all living organisms.

The mechanical factor behind water cloudiness is improper aquarium care. Poor cleaning, infrequent water changes, etc.

Cloudy water in the aquarium, what to do or what to avoid:

• use of unacceptable materials when decorating the aquarium. Do not use dyed, free-flowing or soluble items. Such items can dissolve in water over time, and can not only pollute the water, but also cause harm to the fish in the form of poisoning and diseases.
• Incorrect startup of the aquarium, startup with errors. Main and common mistake- it's a rush. Many are in a hurry to quickly launch an aquarium, plant plants and stock fish. But before that, you need to thoroughly wash all the decorations, especially the soil. Any soil contains a lot of small particles and dust. You need to rinse it several times until the water, when rinsed, becomes clear. After installing decorations and soil in the aquarium, then filling everything with water, you will see that the water is not perfectly clean. There is nothing wrong with this, you need to let it settle for a few days, and only then continue the launch
• improper care. As a result of the vital activity of all living organisms (crustaceans, plants, fish), waste is formed: leftover food, dead organic matter, feces. And if cleaning is not carried out (soil siphon, removal of dead leaves from plants), or water filtration is poorly configured, then all these residues accumulate. And when large quantities, float in the water, creating the preconditions for biological turbidity of the water in the aquarium.

The water in the aquarium is cloudy: solutions

The water in the aquarium is cloudy, what should I do? First: Complete cleaning of the existing filter (then weekly cleaning), if necessary, replace it with a more powerful one.

Second: changing water, siphoning soil, cleaning the walls of the aquarium, cleaning decorations and removing unsuitable ones.

Preparations that will help you in the fight against mechanical turbidity in the aquarium:

• The drug Aquaria Clear from the Sera brand. Biologically “binds” the dirt into lumps that fall into the filter.
• Tetra brand Aqua Crystal Water. Effective drug to remove turbidity. It acts in a similar way to the previous drug. As practice shows complete cleaning aquarium occurs in 2-3 days.
• Aquarium charcoal. Very effective absorbent. After completely cleaning the aquarium, it is poured into the filter as a filler, and after one and a half to two weeks it is removed. If necessary, the next “portion” of coal is placed.

Cloudy water in the aquarium

The water in the aquarium becomes cloudy: Biological factors

Microorganisms, bacteria, and fungi live in any water. Most of them are very “helpful” to the aquarium and its inhabitants. Fungi decompose dead organic matter. Bacteria process aquarium poisons: nitrites, nitrates, ammonia. And if this process is disrupted, then a so-called “disturbance of biobalance” (biological equilibrium) occurs, and the water begins to become cloudy.

Cloudy water in the aquarium after startup. In again neglected aquarium the water will be cloudy until the whitish turbidity settles. Turbidity is also possible after the fish have been introduced. As soon as the biobalance is adjusted, everything will return to normal. But the main thing is not to forget about care, and promptly change the water and clean the filter.

If there is a violation of the biological balance in an established aquarium, then this is, in most cases, the fault of the owner (inadequate care, oversight).

Possible appearance of whitish turbidity after treatment of fish. After all, all drugs and chemistry have by-effect– disturbance of biobalance.

The biobalance links work for the benefit of the aquarium, removing poisons, as stated above. But as soon as one of the links stops working, the poisons accumulate, and this will lead not only to clouding, but also to disease and death of the fish.

The water in the aquarium becomes biologically cloudy, what should I do?

How to adjust the biobalance and how to get rid of turbidity in an aquarium? First:Timely and regular water changes.

Second: Don't forget about regular cleaning of the aquarium.

Third:Do not overfeed the fish.

Important! In a newly launched aquarium, there is no need to change the water for the first month. If there is a need to substitute, then try to do it in minimal quantities.

Preparations for eliminating biological turbidity in water

Almost all brands have in their arsenal a line of drugs that adjust the biological balance in the aquarium.

There are essentially two types of drugs: neutralizing poisons, and drugs that promote the development beneficial bacteria(or are a concentrate of these beneficial microorganisms).

Preparations to combat water turbidity

Let's look at some popular drugs:

• Zeo Max Plus from the AquaEl brand. Zeolite is an absorbent that, unlike coal, copes well with nitrates and nitrites. Placed as a filler in the filter. But you shouldn’t keep it in the filter for more than a month.
• Fluval Zeo-Carb. Similar to the previous drug. But in addition to zeolite, it contains activated carbon.
• drug Toxivec from Sera. At the chemical level, it eliminates NO2NO3. Effectively removes hazardous substances, poisons that can threaten the health of fish. Since this is a chemical, it is recommended to use it once.
• Bactozym drug from the Tetra brand. The conditioner accelerates the process of stabilizing the biobalance in the filter.
• Nitran Minus Perls granules from Tetra. The granules are buried in the ground. Biologically reduce nitrate levels. Used to control algae.
• Nitrate Minus from Tetra. Conditioner that biologically improves water quality. Used to reduce nitrate levels.
• the drug Bio Nitrivec from the Sera brand. Used to quickly start an aquarium. Contains a mixture of cleansing bacteria for the biobalance of the aquarium.

Important! Before using any drug, you should carefully read the instructions. And strictly adhere to dosages.

What to do if the water in the aquarium is cloudy: additional measures to maintain normal biological balance

• orderlies and snails will help maintain the biobalance of the fish
• the use of multi-stage filtration will greatly improve water quality
• The biobalance is more stable if living plants grow in the aquarium. By absorbing, they reduce the concentration of decay elements of living organic matter.

After reading the material in this article, you will know: why the water in the aquarium quickly becomes cloudy, what to do if the water in the aquarium becomes cloudy, and what medications to choose to help you.

If the water in the aquarium becomes cloudy, this indicates an unfavorable microclimate in the indoor pond. In addition to the fact that this sight in itself is not very pleasant, it can also be dangerous for the inhabitants of your home lake. Especially if the water has become cloudy, which was previously clear as a tear. This situation sometimes requires emergency intervention in the ecosystem of an artificial pond.

With all the variety of reasons described in many forums, they can all be summarized by by and large to just two main mechanisms that can cause your pets’ habitat to become cloudy.

1. 1. The first mechanism is the safest - stirring up the smallest particles.
2. 2. The second mechanism is more diverse, variable, and also dangerous for your pets. This second mechanism, due to which the aquarium environment can become cloudy, is designated by the phrase “disturbance of biological equilibrium.”

Each of these mechanisms can also be divided according to the time the problem occurred, namely:

1. 1. The water in the aquarium is cloudy immediately after its launch.
2. 2. The water in the aquarium is cloudy with a long-established biological equilibrium.

Let's first consider a simpler and safer case. The medium may become cloudy due to the rise of tiny soil particles from the bottom.

These particles are so small that they can remain suspended for several days. They cause the crystal clear environment to become cloudy. More often, this problem occurs after starting a new aquarium, if poorly washed soil was laid on its bottom. By the way, even soil purchased from a pet store counter from world-famous manufacturers also requires thorough rinsing before use, which can be found out by reading the instructions for using the soil.

Such turbidity is safe for the inhabitants of the underwater world. But it is also advisable to get rid of it. Firstly, some types of fish still do not tolerate turbidity well. Secondly, the dregs do not add aesthetics. To prevent such a situation, as already mentioned above, you should thoroughly rinse the new soil before use, regardless of whether it was purchased in a store or collected independently at the bottom of the nearest river.

If, nevertheless, insufficiently washed water was placed on the bottom, then sometimes it is possible to get rid of mechanical turbidity with the help of a powerful mechanical filter. After part of the turbidity settles to the bottom, and another smaller fraction is filtered out by the filter, its filter element must be thoroughly rinsed under pressure.

If you keep fish that like to dig, such as various varieties or American ones, then they can raise new portions of fine turbidity from the bottom for a long time. If the mechanical filter has sufficient power, this is safe and does not require any emergency intervention on your part. Although the environment may become crystal clear only after a few weeks.

It is much more dangerous if the water becomes cloudy due to a violation of bioequilibrium.

Again, if this happened immediately after the launch of a new biotope, then, as a rule, it is safe for your pets. This is due to the fact that the water is not sterile and chemically pure. It always contains some amount of mineral as well as organic compounds, representing weak solution these

substances and a certain amount of bacteria. Even if you use it from the tap, it is also not sterile and does not consist solely of H 2 O molecules. It is free from pathogens, as well as toxic substances, but it still contains some organic matter and harmless microorganisms. Once in your artificial lake, these harmless bacteria begin to multiply vigorously, absorbing organic compounds from the solution. The growth of bacteria can be so rapid that the environment from such a number of microorganisms becomes cloudy, usually whitish, as if a small amount of milk had been poured into it.

After microorganisms absorb all the organic compounds edible for them, they will be left without a food base and will quickly die off. But they will partially die off. Their quantity will remain at a level that will be sufficient to process organic matter supplied with fish food. The so-called biological balance will be established, which, with the correct arrangement of the indoor pond and with proper care it can remain behind for years.

The processes of establishing bioequilibrium are greatly simplified here for the sake of brevity. In fact, there is not just one strain of bacteria, but sometimes several dozen of them. In addition, different strains can successively replace each other, compete with each other, with unicellular algae, as well as protozoa.

After starting a new vessel, bioequilibrium is established independently within two to three days. There is no need to take any additional measures for this. Moreover, active actions can only delay the establishment of biological equilibrium. Thus, beginners, often seeing turbidity in their underwater living area a few days after its launch, rush to change the water completely or almost completely, and the process of establishing bioequilibrium, before it can be completed, begins all over again. And the unlucky newcomer, seeing that the liquid, which was poured in crystal clear just yesterday, has again become cloudy, changes it again, interfering with the completion of the processes of establishing biological balance.

In order for biological equilibrium to be established in a new aquarium or when it is forced to restart as soon as possible, it is best to fill it with part of the water from the old one, which already has an established bioequilibrium. This will speed up the reproduction of exactly those harmless microorganisms that are necessary for your living area. These harmless microorganisms will compete for food supply with other bacteria that can cause disease in fish and will prevent them from multiplying by depriving them of food.

As a rule, if two or three days after its launch, you only need patience to deal with this phenomenon. In another two to three days, biological equilibrium will occur, the environment will again become clean and transparent.

A situation where the water in an aquarium with previously established bioequilibrium will require more attention on your part.

This situation may indicate that over the course of several last days or weeks, you made some mistake while caring for your underwater kingdom.

First of all, you need to decide what color this dregs are.

1. 1. If it is greenish, then most likely there is a rapid proliferation of unicellular algae.
2. 2. A brownish tint can be caused by humic and tannin substances contained in peat or poorly prepared driftwood.
3. 3. The whitish color of the turbidity indicates the rapid proliferation of bacteria.
4. 4. If the color matches the color of the soil or with the “such a beautiful pebble” that was recently dragged and lowered to the bottom, then the cloudiness may be due to the soil being stirred up by burrowing fish or the fragile structure of the object that you considered a stone and recklessly lowered to the bottom of your vessel with fish.

Let us repeat again, stirring up the fine fraction of soil is not a pleasant thing, but, as a rule, it is safe. A mechanical filter of sufficient power will cope with such cloudiness easily.

You should be wary if the cloudiness is clearly bacterial in nature or if it is caused by unicellular algae.

As a rule, this can be caused by an increase in the amount of nitrates. Their increased amount promotes rapid development of nitrifying bacteria. The bacteria themselves are safe unless pathogenic species get inside the jar. The reason that caused their rapid growth is much more terrible. Namely, the accumulation of waste products of your pets - nitrates, nitrites. Unfortunately, by the time

In this case, the most delicate or least hardy fish are already dead.

It is urgent to replace half the volume of water with fresh, settled water at the same temperature. This is not the case when one should wait for the spontaneous establishment of biological equilibrium. If you have a simple filter, you should rinse its filter element under a powerful stream. The biofilter may also need to be restarted. If there is somewhere, then you need to transplant the surviving fish into clean vessel. In the following days, you should also replace 1/3 of the water, fresh, settled. IN in this case turbidity is only a sign of rapid proliferation of bacteria or unicellular algae. And their rapid growth is an indicator of pollution with a large amount of organic residues. Unfortunately, you cannot rely on this indicator. When it works, it is often too late.

In stores selling aquarium products you can purchase kits for determining nitrates, nitrites, and total ammonia. If you are planning to start fish farming or your indoor pond is overpopulated, then you need to purchase these kits, learn how to use them and periodically monitor contamination with the substances listed above.

To prevent the water in the aquarium from becoming cloudy, the hobbyist should adhere to the following recommendations.

1. 1. Before laying the soil on the bottom, it should be thoroughly washed to remove any turbidity.
2. 2. You cannot overpopulate your underwater world. It is better to adhere to stocking standards for aquariums that are not equipped with filters or artificial aeration. The more inhabitants, the more difficult it is artificial ecosystem cope with their waste products.
3. 3. It is advisable to choose a vessel large sizes. The larger its volume, the faster bio-equilibrium is established in it and the easier it is to maintain it there.
4. 4. Do not overfeed your pets. And after feeding, you should remove the remains of uneaten food. Left at the bottom, food particles can rot. As they decompose, they will greatly disturb the biological balance, providing food for bacteria that will hasten to multiply.
5. 5. It is advisable to equip the container with artificial additional aeration, as well as mechanical or biological filters.
6. 6. Not a rule, but a recommendation. For use chemicals To correct the water environment of an artificial pond, you should clearly understand what you are doing. Thoughtless use of chemistry can bring more harm than good.
7. 7. Not a rule or a recommendation. Thinking out loud. Previously, at the dawn of aquarium hobby, art consisted precisely in the ability to create a balanced ecological system in a closed volume, which could itself maintain balance for years. Today we increasingly rely on the miracles of technological progress. However, no super-powerful, state-of-the-art filtration systems or chemical reagents can replace your knowledge and experience. Let your hundred-liter aquarium serve as a home for only a dozen medium-sized fish, but let them feel comfortable there. And as you gain knowledge and experience, you can increase the number of fish by the same volume using technical means and chemistry.

Let's summarize some results. Turbidity is a consequence of the proliferation of bacteria or single-celled

seaweed Their rapid growth is due to the accumulation organic matter, which are unsafe for your pets. Bacteria and algae process harmful substances, so it’s not them that you need to fight. Their rapid growth is just a consequence, and needs to be eliminated dangerous reason. But by the time they multiply in sufficient numbers to process harmful substances, some fish may already die.

Therefore, you need to monitor the increase in the concentration of harmful substances, and if this has happened, take all measures to urgently reduce their concentration and draw the right conclusions for the future. Sometimes rapid development of individual strains of bacteria is possible when normal indicators organic nitrate-containing compounds. Then you should look to see if there are dead, rotten parts of plants or dead fish somewhere.

To avoid this, control the accumulation of nitrates, nitrites, and ammonia compounds in it. To do this, populate the aquarium at a rate corresponding to its volume, feed its inhabitants moderately, and promptly remove any leftover food, as well as dead, rotten parts of plants. If there is no biofilter, be sure to replace one third of the water with fresh, settled water once a week. It is necessary to replace, and not refill the evaporated one. Then your aquarium will bring you only joy.