The angelfish got sick. How can angelfish get sick in a home aquarium?

Angelfish are quite hardy; if the fish is healthy, then it can withstand various infections. Main cause of diseases beautiful fish– inappropriate conditions of detention. Angelfish diseases are easier to prevent than to treat. Therefore, the main task of the owner is to ensure full conditions life for scalars in the aquarium.

But even with proper care, it is not always possible to avoid some diseases; lethargic fish make their owners nervous. What do angelfish most often suffer from and what to do in critical situations? Let's look at the main diseases of these beautiful fish.

Infection with helminths can only be determined when the signs have entered the final phase. The angelfish refuses to eat, is exhausted, and its discharge changes color and shape. Treatment is carried out using antihelminthic drugs.

Symptoms of infection with microspores are gray spots on the body, the angelfish does not eat, it is lethargic and motionless. There is no point in treating fish for this disease, but it is possible to prevent infection. To do this, you need to monitor the quality of their food. If an individual infected with microspores is found in the aquarium, it should be isolated immediately.

Protozoa flagella form a disease such as hexamitosis in angelfish. How does this disease manifest itself in fish?

Main symptoms:

  1. Ulcers on the scalp.
  2. The appearance of the side line changes.
  3. The excrement becomes white and thin.

With hexamitosis, the intestine can sometimes prolapse, but this is not the main symptom of the disease. If the angelfish eats a lot, then when it overeats, its intestines may also come out. Hexamitosis can be tracked by “holes” on the head. Infection occurs through water in which there was excretion from a sick fish and through food. Scalars are treated with special medications to prevent scarring. If the process is not started, then the disease can be cured.

Bacterial infections

Present in the aquarium a large number of harmless bacteria. They are found in water, decorative objects, and on the skin of fish. Some even do useful function, for example, provide biological filtration in the aquarium.

Which bacterial diseases are they most common among scalars?

  1. Mycobacteriosis or fish tuberculosis.
    The disease manifests itself in loss of color, the fish have bulging eyes, and weight is reduced, since the angelfish eats little. Their behavior also changes. Often the fish tries to hide, for which it chooses secluded places. How to treat angelfish for tuberculosis? Unfortunately no effective medicines to fight this bacterium. It is unacceptable for a sick individual to be in the aquarium; all inhabitants must go through quarantine, and the water must be completely disinfected and replaced.
  2. Fin rot.
    The disease begins with the fins, the edges change color, the shape is torn. Necessary urgent treatment. What is it for? If no action is taken, the rot spreads to the body and the interradial tissue decomposes. The treatment process includes treatment antifungal agent, improving water quality.

In more in rare cases scalars may have diseases such as vibriosis and Pseudomonas aeruginosa.

Signs of vibriosis:

  • lethargy, angelfish eats little;
  • bulging eyes;
  • red fins;
  • white coverings on the skin;
  • abdominal bloating.

With a transient form of vibriosis, angelfish die. It is necessary to introduce quarantine and monitor water quality; antibiotics cannot be avoided.

Infection with Pseudomonas aeruginosa leads to hemorrhages in the mouth. In addition, the hemorrhage can be internal, affecting the liver and kidneys. External symptoms- ulcers on the sides of the body. Treatment is difficult, but a favorable outcome is possible if the antibiotic is chosen correctly.

Poisoning

One of the main reasons from which angelfish die and get sick is poisoning with ammonia, chlorine, and nitrite. Some diseases of angelfish begin with poisoning, since the fish have a reduced and weakened immune system.

What causes poisoning and how do the symptoms appear?

  1. Ammonia poisoning.
    There is a small amount of oxygen in the water, so the angelfish begins to suffocate. The behavior of the fish changes; they can jump out of the aquarium, which is unusual for them. Angelfish damage their gills, and their body color becomes dark. Excess ammonia is caused by the lack of a filtration unit, a large amount of unused food in the water, and the death of inhabitants.
  2. Nitrates are not harmful to most fish, but they are very harmful to angelfish.
    When poisoned, they become lethargic, the gills turn pale, and the fish eat little. Signs of poisoning appear from the first to the third day, sometimes scalars die from nitrate shock.
  3. Chlorine poisoning causes fish to appear pale and may have red gills and other body parts.
    The behavior is restless, the angelfish itches, and there is disorientation.

Why else would there be mass death? One of the reasons is overcrowding in the aquarium. The symptoms in this case are similar to poisoning: damaged or red gills, mucus spots on the body, the fish is lethargic and does not eat. This is due to the fact that the new aquarium does not have the necessary biological environment, that is, it has not yet matured. To avoid this, you should monitor ammonia and nitrite levels and take care of biological filters.

Fungal and viral diseases

Fungi actively appear where there is a favorable environment, for example, the remains of fish or temperature changes.

What can angelfish get sick with?

  1. Ichthyosporidiosis.
    This fungal disease develops internally, so it is difficult to track. As the disease progresses, the fish's color darkens and their eyes become goggle-eyed. Sometimes the angelfish does not eat, its scales stand up. Treatment with fungal drugs is necessary.
  2. Glugosis – dangerous disease, its carriers die.
    Symptoms of the disease: white bumps, spots, dots. The fish loses coordination and lies on its side. After eliminating the infected fish, their aquarium is thoroughly treated.
  3. Dermatomycosis.
    The cause of the disease is mold. Fish must be treated at an early stage, otherwise the fungus will penetrate into internal organs. If you do nothing, then in advanced cases the scalars die. The main symptom is a whitish coating in the form of plaque.
  4. Branchiomycosis.
    It's contagious and acute illness characterized by the fact that the fish's gills disintegrate. Red and white spots and dots appear on them. The angelfish changes its behavior, tries to stay near the water surface, eats very little, and does not react to stimuli. The fish needs to be treated as early as possible, but even with recovery, the gills will take a long time to regenerate.
  5. Iridovirus infection.
    The angelfish becomes weak, does not eat, and the belly is visually enlarged. Treatment is ineffective and the fish die in most cases.
  6. Rubella.
    This is dangerous viral disease in angelfish, and is also very contagious. The main symptoms in the acute phase are red gills and inflammation of the scales. The body of the fish becomes covered with spots, they are red and accumulate in the abdomen area. Rubella most often causes mass extinction of fish.

What to do if symptoms of disease are discovered in angelfish?

The charm and subtle grace of the angelfish, the favorite of aquarists, evokes an invariable feeling of admiration for another example of perfection from nature. Wanting to have this fish at home, It is important to remember that maintaining and caring for angelfish is responsible and painstaking work.

Sometimes you can come across statements that long time, during which angelfish are raised in aquariums, they have adapted to almost any conditions and water quality:

  • They live successfully in water of any hardness (soft, almost distilled and hard).
  • There have been cases of keeping angelfish at a temperature of 16 degrees, and their successful survival when the temperature rises to 35 degrees.

However, nothing is known about the life expectancy of fish in such conditions.

Optimal conditions for angelfish

For wellness and the long life of your pet from the genus Pterophyllum, to which all angelfish belong, create optimal conditions in the aquarium. And even a beginner can do this task, despite the whimsical nature of the fish and their complex nature.

In the aquarium of beginning aquarists, angelfish often live only 2-3 years. But over time, having learned to provide proper care looking after fish, you can increase their lifespan to ten years or more.

Temperature

Remember that the homeland is tropical areas South America. They are very sensitive to sudden changes in temperature, and cold water not comfortable for them. Therefore, keeping angelfish in an aquarium requires maintaining a water temperature of approximately 26 degrees (the water should be warm). IN different manuals the figures for the lower temperature limit can be different - from 20 to 23 degrees (this depends on the specific breed of angelfish). For example, for, warmer water is recommended.

There are references to the excellent health of angelfish at temperatures of 18 and 16 degrees. But such experiments are very risky (especially for beginners):

  • the fish may get sick and will have to be treated;
  • or an extreme situation may happen - your pets will simply die.

During breeding or treatment of your fish in an aquarium with angelfish, the water temperature is increased by several degrees. In general, do not allow sharp jumps water temperature, maintain it at a constant level.

Water parameters

What are the water parameters in natural place habitat of angelfish in the rivers of the Amazon basin? The waters of the rivers flowing into the Amazon and the Amazon itself are called white, transparent, black and mixed:

  • The black water of the Amazon tributary of the Rio Negro River is brown or olive in color due to its saturation with small particles of the soil layer, but it is very transparent. A powerful flashlight can illuminate it through more than one and a half meters. This water is very clean, poor in mineral compounds, but rich in organic ones. Black water has increased acidity with a pH value from 3.7 to 4.3.
  • White is called opaque muddy water in the Amazon and some flowing into it from right side rivers Due to the huge quantities of silt carried by these rivers, the water looks light.
  • Where the Rio Negro River flows into the Amazon (in the vicinity of the city of Manaus), the multi-colored waters of the two rivers do not immediately mix. Almost fifteen kilometers down from Manaus, two rivers flow side by side along the Amazon. different color– white and black.
  • Mixed water is formed as a result of rising river levels during floods.

Water in different areas rivers can have different acidity (pH values ​​from four to seven). For most of the year the temperature stays at 24-30 degrees, but during the rainy season it can drop to 18 degrees.

Considering that pet stores offer angelfish fish not from natural populations, but grown in aquariums, the following water parameters are recommended for them:

  • acidity in a small range from 6.0-6.5 to - 7.0 s possible deviation about 0.5 up or down;
  • Hardness is recommended around 10, but you can find statements that this indicator can be anything.

Choosing an aquarium

When purchasing an aquarium for angelfish, it is necessary to take into account the territorial parameter. Angelfish, like all cichlids, have a special need for space. In the proportions of the aquarium, width is not as important for them as length and depth:

  • The aquarium can even be narrow, it will not be uncomfortable for them, because in natural conditions Due to their narrow body, they often live in narrow channels.
  • The minimum height (depth) of the aquarium should be 45 centimeters and the length 90 centimeters.

When choosing an aquarium, you must take into account that angelfish are schooling fish. Although it is recommended to keep them in pairs (at least), it will be much better if you purchase a small group (from 4 to 8 copies). The volume of the aquarium for the flock should be selected at the rate of 60 liters per pair of fish. But if it is possible to choose a larger aquarium, it is better to do so.

Aquarium zoning and vegetation

The water space of the aquarium must be divided into several zones. For this purpose, it is good to use decorative driftwood, as well as plants.

Place a variety of vegetation in the aquarium:

  • Plant plants densely at the bottom along the walls, except for the viewing ones. Large-leaved Echinodorus and Vallisneria are recommended.
  • Place a small number of plants that creep and float on the surface of the water. When the aquarium lights suddenly turn on or off and when the lid is opened, shy angelfish may be subject to some stress. To avoid this, plants are placed near the surface of the water to create some shade. Wolfia rootless is recommended. It will not only help angelfish avoid stress, but will also be an additional plant food for them.

When placing decorations made of driftwood and stones at the bottom, provide a lot of free space in the aquarium and at the surface of the water too. Angelfish need room to swim freely throughout the entire water column.

And be sure to create small corners with caves, darkened by plants, driftwood and stones, so that the angelfish can hide if they wish, which they often need.

Diet

Food for angelfish must first of all be of high quality. Angelfish are not picky about food, so the food can be anything.

  • The tubifex is not recommended, considering it a source of disease. Some aquarists completely exclude it and do not offer it to their pets. And if they do, it’s only a little.
  • The larvae of some insects have proven themselves very well: drosophila, coretras, mayflies, bell mosquitoes (bloodworms).
  • A good option are small crustaceans: brine shrimp and daphnia, as well as larvae (nauplii) of brine shrimp.
  • Dry and lyophilized (dried using a special technology and restored upon subsequent moistening).
  • Frozen, for example, minced seafood (ground shrimp, mussels, rapana and scallop). It can be offered to fish frozen.

Feeding recommendations

If you have to change food for angelfish, you may encounter a strike on the part of the fish - refusal of food. There is no need to worry, because after two days your pets will begin to eat again, and their health will not suffer at all.

It is important to pay attention to the peculiarity of angelfish regarding nutrition: they eat exactly as much as you offer them.

Tip: Create a feeding schedule for your pets and only give them food 2 or 3 times a day at certain times. And watch the amount of feed given. This way you will save them from overeating.

It is important to remember that the body shape of the angelfish makes it difficult to collect food from the bottom of the aquarium. Therefore, they prefer live food, which they can easily catch while in the water column. But if it is not possible to buy these feeds, then choose mixtures that slowly sink down. And the fish will have time to pick up and eat such “light” particles of food and receive complete nutrition.

You can place food in special feeders installed on the surface of the water.

In preparation forManufacturers of angelfish are switched to a special diet. Diet days are organized for them weekly. It is strictly forbidden to overfeed at this time. Otherwise, even if spawning occurs, the eggs will not develop.

Diseases and treatment

To prevent angelfish diseases from taking you by surprise, regularly carefully examine their appearance and observe their behavior. Any violation and deviation may be a signal of the onset of the disease. And only observation will help to make a timely diagnosis and, if possible, begin treatment.

So, if you have chosen an angelfish with their spectacular appearance, then all your efforts to create conditions for their comfortable stay in the aquarium will be rewarded with wonderful minutes that you will spend watching them.

Today, fish such as Angelfish are considered the most common. Their popularity is due to their unusual color and interesting shape bodies. As a rule, it reaches 15 cm in size, which is not a small indicator for aquarium fish. This fish requires a large and spacious aquarium. In order for the angelfish to feel comfortable, it must live in a small flock. Alone, such fish can die. As for food for angelfish, it is recommended to choose only live insects. She is not averse to eating bloodworms or cyclops. Don't be afraid to overfeed this fish. In most cases, she eats only the right amount of food for her.

Those who keep such a fish in their home aquarium, often worried about the issue of angelfish diseases. Often, diseases in fish occur due to the human factor. To avoid them, you need to perform a series of preventive methods. Firstly, it is necessary to change the water in the aquarium with fresh water from time to time. Secondly, you should not allow the fish to become hypothermic. You should also monitor the quality of food that the angelfish consumes. It is quite difficult for an aquarium owner to notice diseases of angelfish fish. As a rule, he begins to pay attention to this as soon as mortality appears among his aquatic pets.

When the cause is clear, treatment should begin. Required medicines are found in pet stores. They are calculated according to dosages and types of fish. It would be a good idea to consult a veterinarian. He will be able to prescribe competent treatment for the angelfish. An examination by a specialist will be appropriate in any case, since he has more knowledge in such a situation than the owner of the aquarium. It is worth clarifying that you should always pay attention to the inhabitants of the aquarium. Timely detection of the disease can save many fish from infection and fatal outcome.

Breeding Angelfish at home Angelfish, or angelfish, breeds very easily at home. Puberty in fish it occurs at the age of 8-10 months - it is at this time that they begin to form pairs. Spawning is common...

Aquarium fish Angelfish, reproduction Not everyone can determine the sex of this aquarium fish. However, you can find out for sure when the fish starts spawning. If there is no pair, then you should pay attention to the following...

Angelfish ( lat. Pterophyllum) - the most popular and most widespread aquarium fish from the family cichlids, or cichlids (lat. Cichlidae). The color and shape of the angelfish are very diverse, but mostly they have a light silver background of the body, through which there are dark or black transverse stripes; the appearance is very attractive. Round, laterally compressed body. The pelvic fins are elongated into threads, the dorsal and anal fins are elongated, and the scales are small. Angelfish reach a length of 15 cm and a height of 25 cm. Adult males, unlike females, have a denser body and a convex forehead. Floats calmly, majestically. Afraid of sharp and loud sounds. Demanding on living conditions and water quality. The lifespan of these fish in an aquarium is, on average, about 10 years. Although there are known cases of double longer duration life of an angelfish. At approximately the age of 10 months, the fish reach sexual maturity, and they split into monogamous pairs. The homeland of angelfish is South America, the Amazon River basin, where they live in slow-moving rivers with strong vegetation. The generic name of this fish is translated as "winged leaf". In the West they call it "angel fish". Angelfish have always been considered one of the most beautiful aquarium fish. Her graceful movements and manner of swimming calmly and importantly give her a special decorative value. In the aquarium they get along quite well with other aquarium fish. Angelfish have three main varieties - Pterophyllum scalare, Pterophyllum altum And Pterophyllum leopoldi (previously called Pterophyllum dumerilli).

Types of angelfish

Angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare). This is the most famous variety of angelfish. It has a tall, laterally compressed body, characteristic of all varieties of this fish. Its natural color in nature is silver with black vertical stripes, the color intensity of which varies depending on the condition of the fish and the conditions of its keeping. Dorsal and anal The fins are elongated, while the ventral fins are elongated into threads. The maximum size of the fish is usually 12-15 cm in length and about 20 cm in height. This fish is very popular in aquariums. She gets along easily with other non-aggressive fish breeds and is very peaceful by nature, although she can sometimes be aggressive towards smaller fish, especially her own breed. In nature, the fish lives in slow-flowing rivers of the Amazon River basin. Juveniles usually hide in dense vegetation, while adult fish prefer more open spaces, where plants with wide leaves grow, on which fish spawn. To breed these fish in an aquarium, you also need to plant plants with wide leaves. The fish prefers water with a pH of 6.0-8.0 (6.5-7.4 is ideal),

with a hardness of 5.0-13.0 dGH, and a temperature range of 24-30°C. Some color varieties of the common angelfish bred by breeders:

- marbled angelfish- black spots and streaks are scattered throughout the body;

zebra angelfish- she has more vertical ones than usual dark stripes On the sides;

- golden angelfish- the general background color is golden with a pink tint;

- angelfish trailing- she has especially long fins that resemble a train;

- black angelfish- the general background of the body is velvet black;

- angelfish bicolor or two-color;

- angelfish smoky;

- blue angelfish;

- leopard angelfish;

- angelfish golden mother-of-pearl(gold pearl, gold foiled or diamond);

- marbled gold angelfish– color like a marbled one only with golden scales;

- angelfish lace zebra;

- koi angelfish;

veiled angelfish;

- chocolate angelfish;

- pinoy zebra angelfish.

Angelfish High or Tall , sometimes called - Angelfish Altum (Pterophyllum altum) . The fish is a lover of “black water” ( wastewater, waters with rotted plants, etc.) lives in the same water that neons or cardinals prefer. It lives in the upper reaches of the Rio Negro River, as well as in the Orinoco River basin. The color of this fish is also silver with three dark vertical stripes with a brown tint. This type of angelfish is the largest, the fish reach 18 cm in length and 25 cm in height. Prefers water with a pH of 4.8-6.2, a hardness of 1.0-5.0 dGH and a water temperature of 27-31°C. Unlike Pterophyllum scalare, this fish spawns not on the leaves of broad-leaved plants, but on submerged tree trunks.

Leopoldi Angelfish (Pterophyllum leopoldi) . This fish, earlier

called Pterophyllum dumerilli - The humpback angelfish, or Dumerill's angelfish, also lives in the Amazon River basin. It is extremely rare in aquariums. Unlike the other two types of angelfish, it has a more horizontally elongated body and a slightly different arrangement of stripes.

Origin of the angelfish

The cichlid family includes not only fish with a torpedo-shaped body, but also delicate and very attractive ones, which for many years were very rare and expensive because they did not breed easily in aquariums. Of the two introduced species, the large one has almost disappeared Pterophyllum scalare, because even experienced aquarists have never been able to propagate this species in an aquarium. But there was a smaller one left - Pterophyllum eimekei, which reproduced more easily, as well as hybrids of these two species. For the first time, fry were obtained in Europe only in the early 20s of the last century, and in our country in 1928. And only 20 years later, angelfish began to be bred in large quantities. Now the small species is not uncommon in the aquarium and reproduces easily.

Angelfish need a large and deep (at least 50 cm in height) aquarium. The aquarium should have dense vegetation, but at the same time it also needs free space for swimming (plants can be placed in one line in the background so that the front is free). The water temperature should be quite high, about 24-28°C, although fish can tolerate a drop in temperature to 18° without harm, but not for long.

Feeding angelfish

The main factor in the long life of fish is proper feeding. You should not overfeed your fish; it is better to underfeed them. Give your fish a daytime fast once every 3 months. Feeding the angelfish is done 1-2 times a day. At the age of up to 1 month, fish are fed every 2-3 hours, at the age of 1-2 months 4 times a day. Angelfish feed mainly on live food. They can move very quickly, chasing guppies or other small fish, tadpoles, various insects and their larvae. But they also nibble on algae and pieces of leaves of tender aquatic plants. They grow best when alternating food from fish fry and mosquito larvae (bloodworms, coretra, etc.). Feeding these fish with minced seafood also gives excellent results: mussel meat (scallop, rapana clam) and shrimp.

Breeding angelfish

For breeding, high temperatures are required (up to 28-30°) and necessarily some broad-leaved plants (for example: cryptocorynes, echinodorus, etc.). The fish clear the leaf they have chosen of sand, silt, and food residues, and the female lays one egg on it, arranging them in rows, and the male fertilizes each of them separately. At the end of spawning, both fish remain near the eggs and fan them all the time with their fins to ensure an influx of fresh water. The male and female free the fry that have developed in the eggs from the egg shell and spit them out onto the leaves. Here the fry hang on short threads for the first time. Later, the parent fish transfer the fry to a flat hole they dug in the sand and keep them there for 4-5 days. After this, the fry make their first attempts at independent swimming. After another day, the two parents take the flock of fry out for a walk. At this time they need to be given the smallest live food. The fry very soon switch to relatively large food, such as small cyclops, so that there are not too many difficulties in obtaining food. Some hobbyists prefer to transfer a plant leaf with eggs laid on it into a jar with the same water, but without soil and plants, placing it near an air spray. From the laid eggs, of which there are up to 600 pieces, fry are hatched, as a rule, in quantities equal to half or two-thirds of the number of eggs.

Compatibility of angelfish with other aquarium animals

Angelfish are by nature peaceful, schooling fish, but during the breeding season they become uncooperative. They can be shy. She gets along easily with other non-aggressive fish breeds, although she can sometimes be aggressive towards smaller fish, especially her own breed. Compatibility depends on the volume of the aquarium in which the scararia live, on the number of plants. The larger the aquarium in which angelfish are kept, the more species of aquarium fish can safely exist together with angelfish. Only telescopes (fish with bulging eyes), telescopes will simply be left without eyes, and then inevitable death will occur for them. Angelfish of the same color and approximately the same age get along well with each other; placing a very young angelfish with an adult can lead to the death of the young individual, since it simply will not get food.

Prevention of angelfish diseases

Basic preventive measures:- do not allow fish to become hypothermic; - once a week, replace 20-30% of the water poured into the aquarium with fresh water, while avoiding sudden temperature changes; - wash the filters as they become dirty; - before placing newly acquired fish in community aquarium, quarantine them for a month in a separate aquarium. All water parameters, including temperature, should be the same as in the aquarium in which you will keep the “new ones”; - do not feed fish with food of dubious quality and origin, do not buy cheap food; - if ulcers or other damage appear on the body and fins of fish, use antibacterial and antifungal drugs for fish. Unfortunately, even with compliance preventive measures, the fish may get sick (if not followed, the likelihood of illness increases many times over). The cause of all diseases is improper living conditions, feeding, stress, and the introduction of pathogens with food. Often fish have split fins. In order to cure your fish, seek advice from a pet store, veterinary hospital or an experienced aquarist. Based on the recommendations of a specialist, purchase from a pet store necessary medications. Treat the fish according to the included instructions. Many angelfish diseases can be prevented by proper fish care. Diseases can be caused by many reasons.

.

-A shiver runs through the fish's body - .

- Skin covering fades - alkalosis - Refusal to feed -

Graceful and graceful - this is exactly what the angelfish, widely known in aquariums, looks like.

According to the classification of animals, the angelfish genus belongs to the order Perciformes, the cichlid family. In the international scientific literature, this genus of fish has the Latin name Pterophyllum scalare (from the Latin “winged leaf” and “ladder”), which in translation quite accurately reflects their appearance: a vertically flying flat body of a triangular outline due to the prominent elongated dorsal and anal step-like fins.

This cosmic structure of the body is due to the homeland of the angelfish habitat - the waters of South America (the Amazon River basin, as well as the Orinoco River) with densely growing abundant vegetation.

Looking at the variety of angelfish colors presented in the aquarium hobby today, you will be surprised to learn that initially they have only one color – silver with four vertical stripes of black, one of which crosses the eye area (red) inclusive. The brightness of the stripes depends on the state of the fish; they can disappear almost completely, for example, from fright.

All other color options that differ from the natural color are the result of selection.




Let us note that if we approach the issue of selection with all rigor, then the large species of angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare), originally introduced (and surviving) in 1912 to Europe and then to Russia, breeders were not able to successfully breed in artificial conditions, until now. However, in 1924, another type of angelfish was imported - a small one, which was dubbed Pterophyllum eimekei, after the name of the company "Eimekei", which supplied them. Successful spawning in artificial conditions of this fish species was recorded already in 1925 in Europe and in 1928 in Russia. Later they came to the conclusion that aquarium selection is possible between hybrids of large and small species. Strictly speaking, Pterophyllum eimekei can be considered a subspecies of Pterophyllum scalare. Although, biological studies do not reveal the proper level of differences between them, and therefore ichthyologists do not consider the small-sized Common angelfish or its large-sized hybrid to be another independent species.

When keeping angelfish at home, you need to take into account that the size of an adult fish is directly proportional to the size of the aquarium. In a small aquarium, angelfish will not grow more than 5-6 cm in length, despite the presence genetic predisposition To large sizes. But, if you create appropriate conditions for these fish and keep them in a large aquarium, they can grow up to 15-20 cm in length and up to 26 cm in height, and some species up to 30-40 cm in height.

Common Angelfish

When talking about angelfish in aquariums, they most often mean the species of angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare). However, there are two more species - the Altum angelfish (Pterophyllum altum) or also called the High-bodied angelfish and the Leopold angelfish (Pterophyllum leopoldi). The first of these species - the Altum angelfish - attracts aquarists primarily for its size - the largest species among Pterophyllum, but fish of this species are extremely picky about living conditions and reproduction. Therefore, only experienced aquarists are recommended to try their luck as a breeder with this species. Leopold's angelfish, on the contrary, is the smallest species among Pterophyllum, but is not very common among aquarists due to its very aggressive nature.

The common angelfish (Pterophyllum scalare) is the most common and most adapted species for life in artificial systems: it is relatively unpretentious in maintenance and reproduction, peaceful in disposition, with minor exceptions in behavior during spawning.

As noted earlier, the species Pterophyllum scalare has many breeding forms, differing not only in body color, but also in the shape of the fins. Some gene mutations have been around for decades, while others have only recently been discovered. The works of Dr. Joanne Norton (1982) describe the most famous phenotypes and their gene mutations. These include Dark, Marble, Gold marble, Smokey, Stripeless, Pearl, Streaked, Veil, Albino . Conventionally, they can be divided into the following groups: spotted angelfish, striped angelfish, long-finned angelfish and solid angelfish.

The breeding group of spotted angelfish includes:


The group of striped angelfish includes the following forms of their selection:


The long-finned angelfish group includes fish with modified fin shapes:



The group of solid angelfish consists of fish with a complete or partial mutation of the general background color of the body:


It is obvious that some breeding forms of angelfish may have more than one dominant trait, which is used to represent a given gradation of fish. Which only once again emphasizes the fervor of aquarists in their desire to achieve everything new and new form and colors of the common angelfish that would amaze the world.

But before embarking on such a tricky science as genetic crossing, you need to thoroughly study the conditions of detention and the breeding characteristics of these amazing fish.

Create favorable conditions For healthy life Pterophyllum scalare is feasible for any beginner. To do this, it is enough to bring them closer to the waters of the Amazon River basin - the natural habitat of angelfish. chemical composition(“black”, clear and mixed types of water with hardness

So, taking into account the tolerances, optimal acidity aquarium water for common angelfish it is in the pH range 6.0 - 7.0 with a permissible deviation of 0.5 up or down; the hardness value is not important, the exception is the dilution process - up to 15 dGH; optimal temperature regime 25-27°C with the possibility of gradual adaptation to a lower value (up to 18°C, some manage to lower the temperature even to 15°C), however, breeding angelfish at this temperature is impossible, because Spawning requires a higher temperature than life – 26-30°C.

In addition to water parameters, it is also important to take into account the territorial parameter. Angelfish have a clearly expressed need for territorial space, which is inherent in all fish of the cichlid family. For the fish species of angelfish, the depth and length of the aquarium are primarily important, while the width can be minimal. It’s not for nothing that nature took care of their flat body shape! When choosing an aquarium, you should also take into account that angelfish are schooling fish, so it is recommended to keep them at least in pairs, and preferably in a small group of 4-8 individuals. On average, one pair of fish requires a space of at least 60 liters, with a height of at least 45 cm. But if it is possible to place the fish in a large aquarium, do it!

To prevent the aquarium from becoming a place of constant stress for angelfish, its water space must be zoned with the help of decorative driftwood and plants. Vegetation should be of different types: dense longitudinal plantings, the presence of plants with wide leaves if you are interested in breeding angelfish, and a small layer of plants creeping along the surface. Plants on top smooth out the effects of surprise (when turning on/off the aquarium light, noise when opening the lid, etc.) for shy angelfish; floating plants are also suitable for this purpose, for example, rootless wolfia, which at the same time will serve as a good food additive for fish.

The planting scheme can be as follows: high density of vegetation along the walls of the aquarium, excluding viewing areas, and free space in the central (viewing) part, which is zoned using various decorative snags. Although angelfish are considered relatively picky fish, they are very sensitive to excessive concentrations of decomposition products of organic and chemical compounds. Therefore, it is necessary to take care of good filtration and aeration, with weekly water changes in the ratio of 1/5 of its total volume.

The common angelfish is a completely peaceful fish, but... In the kingdom of aquatic animals, size matters; if you are not careful (failure to feed or overpopulate the aquarium in time), small fish can become dinner for an adult angelfish. At the same time, the angelfish is a very vulnerable fish due to the length of its fins - a constant subject of attack among certain species of fish.

Angelfish are well compatible with barbs, provided that there is not one barb in the aquarium, but a small group. Otherwise, even in numbers of two, the barbs will bite the fins of the angelfish. Also good neighbors for angelfish will be swordtails and platies, some species of catfish, iris and mollies, gouramis, tetras, and loachia. In short, all types of non-aggressive fish are suitable. Under no circumstances should you room together goldfish, bettas, African and South American cichlids, discus fish and guppies. Angelfish get along well with their same-species relatives, but can show aggression towards a young individual or an individual outside the pair. Due to the unclear distinction between male and female, especially in at a young age, such situations arise when angelfish individuals begin to divide into pairs. Then it may turn out that there are more boys in your pack than girls or vice versa.

With age, starting from the second year of life, gender differences in angelfish become more noticeable. Signs of a male angelfish: convex forehead, slightly larger than the female in body and dorsal fin size.

Signs of a female: a convex abdomen in comparison with a male angelfish, the presence of a small tubercle in the area of ​​the genital opening.

It is not known by what criteria angelfish choose a mate, but it is known that the partner fidelity of angelfish is comparable only to that of a swan: they choose a mate for life, in case of separation they become very stressed and often get sick. By the way, scalars are like everyone else big fish They are long-lived; in artificial reservoirs they live up to 10 years. These fish reach sexual maturity by the age of one year, and then division into pairs occurs.

In a group of formed pairs, one can observe the establishment of subordination of smaller angelfish to larger ones. The leader para occupies the best angle in the aquarium. Therefore, it is very important that the aquarium has an even separation of vegetation and driftwood for all pairs and enough space for them to swim freely.

A complete diet for an angelfish must necessarily include live food, and there is no fundamental difference in what it will consist of (tubifex, bloodworms or something else). Live food can be safely alternated with other types of food: dry, frozen, lyophilized (food dried in a special way that is restored when moistened), the main thing is that they are of high quality. In this matter, angelfish are absolutely picky, but it is important that live food predominates in the fish’s diet. At the same time, it is believed that the tubifex is a source of disease, so some aquarists prefer to completely exclude it from the fish’s diet or reduce its consumption to a minimum. But the fry (Artemia nauplii), planktonic crustaceans (Daphnia, Artemia) and insect larvae (bloodworms, mayflies, coretra, Drosophila) - great options for live food. When changing the type of food, angelfish can go on strike for a couple of days, which in no way affects their health.

At the stage of preparing angelfish pairs for spawning, which is 1.5-2 weeks, weekly diet days are purposefully carried out. During this period, under no circumstances should they be overfed, because... if spawning occurs, larvae will not be able to form in it. The beginning of the spawning period is characterized by the pair’s admiration of the surface (substrate) for spawning future eggs, its thorough cleaning and protection. At this time, angelfish become quite aggressive, like any animal protecting its future offspring. The substrate is wide leaves of plants, flat surfaces of stones and driftwood, aquarium glass and even hoses from aquarium equipment.

The incentive for angelfish to spawn is to increase the temperature to 28-30°C and replace 2/3 of the water. Therefore, if your aquarium contains not only this type of fish, then it becomes necessary to transplant the spawning pair into a separate aquarium, with 1-2 days of settled water and the addition of an antifungal drug. However, even if you have a species aquarium, experienced aquarists advise purchasing special spawning aquariums and planting the desired pair there (especially if we are talking about crossing different forms angelfish). This approach contributes to a higher percentage of successful hatching of fry and their subsequent adulthood. The fact is that over more than 60 years of selection, the parental instinct of many angelfish has weakened and there are frequent cases of eating their eggs, if not immediately, then certainly after 2-3 days. In addition, the conservation instinct tells fish to eat their eggs in moments of danger. In artificial conditions, not only approaching the eggs of another fish, but also strangers can be considered dangerous. loud sounds behind the aquarium.

The immediate spawning process is as follows. The female lays the first portion of eggs on the selected substrate, one in a row, and swims away. Now the male swims up to the substrate with the eggs, his task is to fertilize each egg. Then they change again. On average, this action takes up to 2 hours. The amount of eggs spawned depends on the size of the female: large - up to 1 thousand, medium and small - 400-600 eggs.

If the parents then hatch (in order to preserve the eggs), then the substrate with the eggs must be provided with a constant flow of fresh air. In nature, both parents do this, actively fanning the eggs with their fins.

The incubation period usually lasts two days, but especially high temperature may take one day. Afterwards, the larvae are freed from the egg shell (if there are parents nearby, they help their children in this process by swallowing the eggs in their mouths and then spitting them out onto the spawning substrate). Next, you need to separate the larvae from the whitened eggs (unsuccessfully fertilized eggs). Because The shell of the eggs is sticky, so when shaking them from a sheet/stone/glass, it is convenient to use wooden sticks (long skewers), and then be sure to siphon the aquarium to remove unfertilized eggs. IN natural conditions the male and female carry the hatched larvae to safe place- a hole in the sand, and they eat the whitened eggs as they appear.

Over the next 4-5 days, the larvae mature. Don't forget about the need for good lighting. On the fifth day you will be able to observe the fry striving for independent swimming. If the water temperature in the aquarium is below 28-30°C, then the process of maturation of the larvae into fry will be longer and will take up to 14 days.

Some aquarists specifically set the temperature to 26-28°C, because... It is believed that slow maturation contributes to greater strengthening of the body of the future fry. The maturation of the larva into a fry is evidenced by the empty yolk sac, which has provided the angelfish larva with food all this time.




Angelfish fry

As soon as the fry swim, you need to start feeding them. For the first days of feeding, you need live food, which is thoroughly washed and crushed, literally into dust (“live dust”). Feeding Artemia nauplii is widely recommended. The frequency of feeding per day is 2-3 times, depending on the speed of hunger in the fry (the transparency of the body allows you to see this), at the same time.

By the month digestive system The fry are sufficiently strengthened, and they are gradually transferred to adult food, giving it at first in a smaller form. After two months, the fry can be placed in a juvenile aquarium. Juveniles are transferred to an adult (general) aquarium only when they reach at least 2/3 the size of the adults already living in the aquarium.

Throughout the “infancy” of the angelfish, it is necessary to especially carefully monitor the purity of the water in order to preserve the largest possible percentage of healthy juveniles. Cleaning is carried out manually (siphon, replacement) to avoid suction when using special equipment.

Angelfish retain a distinctive love for cleanliness throughout their lives; their bodies do not allow the presence of harmful chemical nitro compounds in the water. Fish can also react painfully to overeating.

Fish diseases

The presence of nematodes (Capillaria) in the body can only be determined by strong development illnesses: loss of appetite, exhaustion, changes in the color and shape of excrement (discharge is either white and thin, or alternating light and dark parts, regardless of the composition of the recently eaten food). Infection with helminths can be treated with anthelmintic drugs.

Signs of Heterosporis infection are the depletion of the angelfish, a change in color (the appearance of grayish spots on the body). It is impossible to cure your fish from this disease, but you can prevent it by buying quality food, because infection occurs when eating infected fish carcasses, which may be part of the food. If you find an infected angelfish, immediately isolate it from others.

The main symptom of all fish diseases is a change in their appearance and behavior. Therefore, always carefully examine your fish for changes in appearance and manner of behavior. Only your powers of observation will be able to respond in time to the occurrence of a particular disease!

To summarize all of the above, it should be said that of the entire variety of freshwater aquarium fish, angelfish are distinguished by their spectacular appearance, unpretentiousness and friendliness in general.

These fish will truly decorate not only any aquarium, but your entire home!




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